The Story of Cotton
Nineteen-year-old José Revueltas in 1934 rides past fields of white gold cotton on his way from Mexico City to Estación Camarón near the U.S. border. He’s been sent by the Communist Party to find out more about the rumors that 5,000 to 15,000 cottonfield workers and migrant pickers are going on strike.
In 2015 author Christina Rivera Garza travels by train to the barren wilderness of Estación Camarón and observes: “Rather than passing, time has swept everything away under its wings,” taking with it information about workers on the cotton fields and the strike.
As reviewer of Autobiography of Cotton Dylan Cook notes, if Revueltas had not made this trip, nothing would be known about the strike, the workers, the conditions they endured, or the rights they fought for. And there would have been no starting place for the story of Garza’s own grandparents, Josė Maria Rivera Doñez and Petra Peña Martínez, the role of cotton in their lives, and the effect of the growth and cultivation of the crop on the people who harvested it and the land that fostered it. (Autobiography of Cotton, by Cristina Rivera Garza • Book Reviews)
Amazon.com: Autobiography of Cotton: A Novel: 9781644453698: Rivera Garza, Cristina: Books
For this reader’s review, see: https://historicalnovelsociety.org/reviewer/k-m-sandrick/
“Cotton is generous,” Garza observes in the article The Afterlife of Cotton. The crop was central to much of the agriculture in northern Mexico. It gave rise to many of the cities in the region, spurred demographic and economic expansion, fostered the growth of a rural middle class, led farmers and workers to push for agrarian reforms, and “reinforced the sense of self-reliance and autonomy so dear to norteños even today.”
But cotton is also cruel, she notes. Over time, the crop exhausted the land of northern Mexico. When Garza traveled near the Mexico-U.S. borderlands 11 years ago, she found that “cotton as such has but disappeared from both vision and memory. From [the towns of] Felicity to Winterhaven, the nomenclature of the desert suggests happy times, but the dunes near Yuma, imperial and white, and the recurrent, ominous presence of the border patrol hint otherwise. How many footprints have vanished here,” she wonders, “swallowed by sand?” (Cristina Rivera Garza: The Afterlife of Cotton: Los algodones https://literalmagazine.com/tag/overcast/; The afterlife of cotton appeared in the print edition of the magazine.)
The story of cotton is a long and complicated one. “For a scrawny, gangling plant that produces hairs about as substantial as milkweed, cotton has exerted a mighty hold over human events…,” writes Stephen Yafa in Cotton, The Biography of a Revolutionary Fiber. It is found in ancient Africa, Asia, and South America. It has ridden along trails from India to Europe, covered the backs of great leaders of Mesoamerica, was pivotal to the Industrial Revolution and the American Civil War, dried up water supplies and poisoned soils.
The next series of TimeStamp posts tell some of the stories about cotton.
Cotton’s Ancient History
Cotton can be traced back thousands of years BC. Thin strands of cotton fibers were found wound around a copper bead that had been buried in the Neolithic site of Mehrgarh near present-day Pakistan, placing the first known use of cotton at the 6th millennium BC or about 8000 years ago. (Where Did Cotton Originate? Its Ancient Global Roots, March 14, 2026)
Small fragments of cotton cloth from archaeological sites in the Indus Valley of Pakistan and India indicate cotton was being woven and spun in that part of the world as far back as 5000 BC. People of the Harappan civilization were principal producers and prime movers of cotton products from their heyday circa 3300 BC to their disappearance around 1600 BC, not only cultivating the crop but disseminating weaving techniques to other parts of the Indian subcontinent. https://humwp.ucsc.edu/cwh/brooks/cotton/The_Ancient_World.html
Cotton fragments in the Tel Tsaf site of Israel’s Jordan Valley date back roughly to 5200 – 4700 BC and are considered to be the earliest evidence of the material in the Near East. The fragments also suggest that cotton was actively traded as a valuable textile. Cotton is not a native plant in the Jordan Valley region, so cotton-made materials had to have been transported over thousands of kilometers from South Asia where cotton was present in the wild. (Where Did Cotton Originate? Its Ancient Global Roots, March 14, 2026)
Cotton seeds from 5000 years ago have been found on the other side of the world in Peru. The seeds are some of the oldest in the region, suggesting that cotton was being grown and harvested even before some native food products were. (Dillehay et al, 2007) Cotton that was domesticated on the Yucatan peninsula as long as 4000 years ago is the same species that is cultivated in most of that region today. (Wendel, Brubaker and Percival, 1992)
Cotton fibers also have been found in the coastal desert of Peru in archaeological sites dating back to 2500 – 1750 BC, well before the areas were making pottery. The fibers carry natural chocolate and reddish-brown pigments that today are known as Egyptian or Pima cotton. (Where Did Cotton Originate? Its Ancient Global Roots)
The earliest traces of cotton in Mexico have been found on the Yucatan peninsula. Cotton fragments in Tehuacán in the Mexican state of Puebla date back 5500 – 4300 years ago. Similar types of fibers found in the Caribbean and North America suggest that cotton fabrics and weaving techniques were passed along trade routes to the east and north.
In addition to actual cotton remnants, written records have placed the fabric in prehistoric time. The earliest written records of Indian cotton describe cotton weaving in a number of locations in northern India as well as farms that were producing cotton fabrics for sale to cultivators in 500 BC. Records also document that cotton was one of the principal commodities India traded to Greece and Rome. (https://humwp.ucsc.edu/cwh/brooks/cotton/The_Ancient_World.html)
Cotton Trade and Expansion
From the coastal areas of Peru, cotton and its production spread north through Central American and Mexico and into the American Southwest. The Hohokam, located in the Sonora Desert of Mexico and Arizona, were first in North American to make use of cotton in 100 CE for bags and clothing. Indigenous people at Snaketown along the Gila River in central Arizona roasted cottonseeds and prepared cotton cloths for more than 1000 years. (Cotton and Native Americans | Social Sciences and Humanities | Research Starters | EBSCO Research)
Egyptians grew cotton along the Nile River, used cotton and flax to make high-quality garments that were traded across the Mediterranean and throughout the ancient world. Cotton appeared in China during the Yuan and Ming dynasties and quickly became a staple in domestic and international trade.
Cotton textiles were produced in Hausaland, Nigeria, as early as the 9th century and were traded among several areas in West Africa in the 11th century. Cotton in East Africa appeared around 500 BC along the Nile River. Cotton fabrics did not thrive, however, until the 9th to the 14th centuries when Islam made cotton popular as a fabric for lower classes to meet requirements for modesty. (https://www.okofarms.org/cottonexploration-1)
Troops in Alexander the Great’s armies (325 BC) wore cotton loincloths and padded their saddles with this “vegetable wool.” Andean mummies were swathed in cotton. Burial sites bore embroidered cotton mantles. Egyptian priests were robed in cotton. (Yafa) But cotton was more than just a fabric.
Cotton as Communication
Ancient civilizations used cotton clothing and textiles not only for trade and currency or everyday coverings while they worked, worshiped, and otherwise went about their lives. Cotton was woven in intricate patterns and dyed in many hues that reflected culture, beliefs, historical events, and elements of nature.
The quetzal. https://tramatextiles.org/blogs/trama-blog/maya-textile-symbols-and-their-meanings
In ancient Maya (beginning in 2000 BC), weaving cotton was a way to tell stories about:
· Origins. A spider spinning its web recalls the goddess Itzam showing a weaver how to weave threads to form an intricate whole.
· Good and evil. As guardians to the underworld, bats rule over darkness and mark enemies.
· Hope vs. pain and suffering. A white butterfly with its wings spread signals freedom, good news, and positivity. A black butterfly represents negativity and tragedy. A green butterfly is a symbol of hope and good health.
· Wisdom. The presence of a double-headed eagle helps guide inner wisdom and focus.
· Nature. The flowers that bloom throughout the year—cacti, gladioli, lilies, pansies, and roses—symbolize fertility and life.
· History. The red chest of the quetzal, the national bird of Guatemala, represents the blood lost while Mayans protected their land and their people.
· Life and work of the weaver. A diamond symbolizes the weaver—body at the base, textiles at the top, and the arms at the sides linking the worker to the product. ( https://tramatextiles.org/blogs/trama-blog/maya-textile-symbols-and-their-meanings )
Death symbol. https://tramatextiles.org/blogs/trama-blog/maya-textile-symbols-and-their-meanings
In other cultures, complex woven cotton fabrics carried messages about status and power. In the Wari civilization (500 BC) textiles were valued as highly as precious metals. (Dass, 2001).
For the Incas, finely fashioned fabrics were even more highly prized. Garments intended for tribute, religious, or royal functions often wove in slivers of precious metals or features from rare birds or added complex embroidery. Even the chosen colors expressed messages—red for bloodshed or conquest, green for the rainforest and its inhabitants, black for death, yellow for corn or gold, and purple to honor the mother of the Inca race.
Sources
How a Pulitzer winner resurrected a forgotten U.S.-Mexico border rebellion - Los Angeles Times
https://books.google.com/books/about/Cotton.html?id=DZoxe0aO9AEC
Autobiography of Cotton by Cristina Rivera Garza | World Literature Today
https://www.nytimes.com/2026/02/05/books/review/cristina-rivera-autobiography-of-cotton.html
Stephen Yafa: Cotton: The Biography of a Revolutionary Fiber, Penguin Books, 2006
Recurso: 20 símbolos tradicionales maya para textiles
Where Did Cotton Originate, March 14, 2026
Simon Kensington: The Vibrant Evolution of Cotton in Clothing and Fabrics.
Cristina Rivera Garza - Wikipedia
Cotton Explorations: The Ancient History of the Cotton Plant, Parts 1 and 2. https://www.okofarms.org/cottonexploration-1
(1) Preceramic Adoption of Peanut, Squash, and Cotton in Northern Peru
https://humwp.ucsc.edu/cwh/brooks/cotton/The_Ancient_World.html
Quisque iaculis facilisis lacinia. Mauris euismod pellentesque tellus sit amet mollis.